Las Fallas - The most unique and popular festival in Valencia

I write this to you in the third week of February, the people of Valencia on the edge of their seats in anticipation for the craziest time of the year: Las Fallas. Now, don’t be shocked if this is your first time hearing of it, I was also completely dumbfounded when people asked me “Are you excited for Fallas this year?” Don’t worry, I’m here to explain it all to you so you can be prepared, take advantage or simply appear more wise and cultured than the rest.

Here we go!

I’m going to try and write this with the energy that Fallas brings to Valencia, and my goodness it’s a lot.

The First Flame

Las Fallas or Las Falles in Valenciano (pronounced: Fah-yas/Fah-yes) is a tradition that started way back in the 18th century. Although its origins are debated I was taught that the festival is a classic celebratory event of the spring equinox, where people would make big bonfires and burn the old wood of the winter to welcome the changing of seasons and the start of spring. This has snowballed into a huge celebration drenched in tradition, satire, creativity and pride. The word Falla comes from the original meaning of ‘torch’ which makes sense with this fire fuelled fiesta!

The Core of Creativity

So we’re not just talking about bonfires all over the city here, no no, there is a whole art form behind the festival. Valencia is basically split into hundreds of different groups/organisations that make up the people of each area of the city, kind of like scouts or guides where a community joins together to represent their neighbourhood. They have elected Fallero artists who build these mouth wateringly colourful and awe inspiring statues (also called a Falla) that can reach up to 20m/65ft high and keep in mind that there can be 700-900 of these monuments placed in the city streets every year!

A Falla is made up of several parts called ‘Ninots’ that slot in together to make the whole statue, each one crafted from a blend of wood, cardboard, papier-mache and plaster to display the chosen theme of each neighbourhood group. It can be satirical (which a lot of them are), a comment on a certain event that’s happened the previous year or simply a theme that everyone agreed on: a show, a movie, an idea, a historical event. All the fallas have a similar style but are completely different of course which makes for a fascinating walk around the city when they are all finally set up in the city streets.

March is for Mascletá Madness

Your ordinary festival usually lasts a few days, maybe a week, but Valencia has taken it a step further because Las Fallas lasts a whole 3 weeks and every year it seems to overflow into February and even January! Valencia grows from a humble population of 850,000 and can receive up to 3 million visitors during fallas time!

So on the official calendar the most important days are 15th-19th March BUT the celebrations truly start from the 1st of March.

Not only do we get to marvel at the fallas statues but there are many other traditions that span over the three week festival. A very important one is the ‘Mascletà’ meaning a gunpowder filled firework display shown in the daytime. This is a bizarre concept for most other cultures seeing it for the first time but an essential event that happens in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento every day at 2pm for the whole three weeks, something you have to experience at least once!

The square is bursting at the seams with people by 12pm so it’s a good idea to get there with time (and supplies) if you want to get close to the action, although that wouldn’t be my top recommendation. For those that don’t like to be squeezed into big crowds a calmer option is to stand a little further back. Honestly, there’s not always a lot to see, it's really about the booming sound and atmosphere in general.

But seriously, if you do get a little overwhelmed by crowds and loud noises take some measures before attending a mascleta. The sheer amount of fireworks released at the mascleta send thunderous roars around the square that relentlessly ricochet off all the buildings that surround it rattling through your bones and nervous system, which can be exhilarating or terrifying!

On top of all that, if you want to get hands on during Las Fallas, several firework shops open during this period to sell to the general public meaning that fireworks and crackers (petardos) are legal for anyone to buy and set off through the whole three weeks of Fallas. It would make sense at this time to recommend staying in accommodation outside of the general ring of the city centre and the neighbourhood Rusafa if you want to get any proper sleep!

A Fiery Fandango

Las Fallas is bookended by two colossal night time firework displays with singing, street acts, lights, shows and general merriment. La Crida, the opening ceremony (usually the Sunday just before the festival starts) and La Cremà, the closing night (19th March) when ALL THE FALLAS MONUMENTS ARE BURNED!

Yes, they burn them. Ok, not quite all…once the winning Falla monument is decided on, the key Ninot, representing the piece, is put in pride of place next in line at the Fallas museum, another fantastic museum to visit if you are in Valencia at a different time of the year.

I have to admit my first experience of La Crema was a little apocalyptic, being from the UK I grew up with over the top health and safety restrictions and seeing these gigantic and beautiful statues being burned to the ground among the narrow 13th century streets was crazy! However, it is controlled by the fire department and to my amazement I seldom hear of any accidents or fire mishaps!

Finding the Fallas

Slide on your most comfortable shoes, zip up a light jacket and tie the emblematic blue and white checkered bandana around your neck and you’re ready to go! Every year the city council releases a map (online and printed) of the specially selected fallas statues of that year and a recommended route around the city to try and see them all.

I’m going to give you a head start and tell you some of the main streets and locations that usually have the best and most popular Fallas statues:

1. Plaza Ayuntamiento

2. Plaza del Mercado

3. Falla de Na Jordana - Calle de Salvador Giner

4. Falla Convent de Jerusalem - Calle Convento Jerusalén

5. Falla Sueca Literato Azorín - Calle de Sueca

6. Falla Cuba Literato Azorin - Calle Literato Azorín

7. Falla San Vicente - Calle del Periodista Azzati

8. Falla Ribera i Convent de Santa Clara - Calle de Ribera

9. Falla Grabador Esteve - Calle del Grabador Esteve

10. Falla Plaza del Pilar - Calle de Maldonado

Of course there are 100s more and one of the best things about Fallas in my opinion is going out with your friends or family. It is such a laugh to weave through the entire city stopping off at every Churrería or mojito corner shack on your way round and gawking up at each work of art you stumble upon. If you’re looking for the real party streets the neighborhood Rusafa will be your goal, specifically the block around Calle de Cuba!

EXTRA TIPS & INFO

• The night time firework displays. This will change slightly every year so make sure to check the updates on the tourist info pages but usually every Saturday and Sunday of the festival as well as the last 4 days there is a pyrotechnic show that normally is set up at the end of the Turia Gardens just in front of or around the Palau de les artes, starting time is always 23:59 and my best advice is to get a place on one of the bridges the cross the river at that section an hour or so before.

• FALLEROS/FALLERAS. You will definitely see people of all ages, especially women, in fancy outfits, traditional Valencian dress, walking around the city and they are called falleras or falleros. They all belong to various different fallas groups that they represent, the women wear big beautiful dresses made from very expensive material with intricate patterns paired with a specific slick back bun and princess Leia style braids practically molded to the sides of their heads (I’ve heard it can really hurt). The men are usually in a variety of white shirts, shorts and a beautifully patterned waistcoat with soft linen wrapped around the middle, this is paired with long colourful socks that go up to the knee and espadrille style shoes.

• LA OFRENDA. On the most important few days of the festival, usually the 17th or 18th of March there is a procession called the Ofrenda, where a parade of falleros and falleras walk to the Plaza de la Virgen where there is a massive statue of La Virgen de los Desamparados waiting to be filled up with flowers offered by each Fallas group, ending in a stunning collection of flowers towering high into the sky for everyone to see. It usually starts about 3:30 in the afternoon and can go on until midnight. This religious aspect is extremely important to the fallas festival and Valencians in general.

• DO NOT use a car. You will not be able to circulate the city very well at all with a vehicle. Your best bet is to use public transport, a bike/electric scooter or if you can find accommodation around the city centre walking will be your best friend.

• Make sure to pack for rain and chilly temperatures. It may end up being really sunny and pleasant but there is always a risk of downpours and lower temperatures at this time of year so make sure to have at least one layer with a hood with you so you can be comfortable.

• Drinking on the street. The only time of the year drinking alcohol on public streets is legal. They set up little pop up bars all over the city centre where cans of beer are usually 1-2€ to really liven up the atmosphere and as for the night time, there are pop up bars everywhere to accompany you on your journey around the fallas statues.

• Partying. I’m sure you have already heard of the Spaniards reputation for partying into the early hours and Fallas is no different. Neighbourhoods like Rusafa and Mercado Central are the most lively spots to visit and the street dancing and music is blasted out until about 4am. So again, I wouldn’t recommend staying in these areas because the fire crackers and music never stops. Important also to know that there are big marquee tents set up for all the fallas groups that they have access to exclusively, they are completely private unless you have paid to be part of a falla for that year. So those just here for a good time will have to make do with partying outside on the streets!

• How to get involved if you are not in Valencia in March. El museo Fallero located just across from the Opera house has all the Ninots from each winner since about 1931. You snake around the 3 story building as it takes you on a historic journey of how the fallas were represented each year. You get to see all the emblematic posters and examples and a video of how they are made, 2€ entrance, well worth it! Also, in recent years they have started a Ninot Exposition, held in the science museum, that opened on the 21st of January this year where each falla offers a ninot for this years fallas and again you snake around the huge hall to admire all the styles and themes that will be on the streets for this year and at the end you can vote on your favourite ones, top tip: bring water and maybe a little snack as it can take a couple of hours and gets very warm inside!